A look at how the overpass will eventually look.

Shaun Scenery

While I’m still waiting on my round styrene (for my piers) to arrive, I decided to go ahead and weather the overpass lanes tonight.

I used some Soot colored weathering powder from Bragdon and sponge brushes to apply the powder.  I also used a paper towel to help feather out the edges of the powder so it blends into the road.  The camera & lightning don’t really give the weathering it’s best appearance here.  It looks softer in person.

Shaun Scenery

Not a 100% happy with the lanes on the overpass, I decided to redo my dash striping on it.  Now it looks much better to me.

Shaun Scenery

This weekend I began working on the Highway 211 overpass in Elmwood.  I originally was going to use a few Pikestuff kits, but when I discovered the cost for 4 lane 20″ long bridge was going to be about $100, I decided to take a crack a semi-scratchbuilding it.

I used the Pikestuff kit as a guide for dimensions of i-beams, roadbase, and pillars.

Tip of the hat to Jamie at the CSX Dixie Line as much of this project was based off his recent  highway project.

Here’s my part’s list for the project.

- 12″ x 24″ x .060″ White Styrene
- Plastruct BFS-6 3/16″ I-Beams
- Plastruct MS-250 .250″ Square Rod
- Plastruct TB-6 3/16″ round tubing
- BLMA Concrete ‘K-Rail’ Barriers
- Rix Products Modern 50′ Railings
- Testors Plastic Model Cement
- Testors Flat Dark Aircraft Gray
- Woodland Scenics Dry Transfers (white and Yellow)

1) I first worked on assembling the roadbase.

I trim the styrene sheet to my needed size; an approximate 5″ x 20″.  I used a scoring tool to score the styrene to snap it.  I then sanded the edge a little to smooth things out.

2) With the roadbase shaped, I glued on the bottom support I-Beams into place.  These come in 24″ lengths, so I trimmed to size.

3) Next I added the center divider.  I used the ‘K-Rail’ concrete barrier from BLMA for this.

4) Installed the Rix Products side railings.

5) With the roadbase assembled, I spray painted it with Testors Flat Dark Aircraft Gray.

6) Final touch was the road stripping. I used Woodland Scenics Dry Transfer Decals.  A variety of sizes come on the sheet, but I used the 1/64″ size.   I followed the instructions to apply, using the blunt end of a paintbrush to the burnishing with.  My lanes aren’t exact 100% straight, but it looks pretty good for my first highway.

The outer shoulders are 3/4″ wide, and each lane is 1″ wide.  The center divider is also 3/4″.  The lane stripping is 3/4″ long spaced 1″ apart.

And that completes the roadway itself.  Part 2 will be the support piers and pads.

Shaun Scenery