Home > Scenery > Building an Overpass – Part 1

Building an Overpass – Part 1

June 28th, 2010

This weekend I began working on the Highway 211 overpass in Elmwood.  I originally was going to use a few Pikestuff kits, but when I discovered the cost for 4 lane 20″ long bridge was going to be about $100, I decided to take a crack a semi-scratchbuilding it.

I used the Pikestuff kit as a guide for dimensions of i-beams, roadbase, and pillars.

Tip of the hat to Jamie at the CSX Dixie Line as much of this project was based off his recent  highway project.

Here’s my part’s list for the project.

- 12″ x 24″ x .060″ White Styrene
- Plastruct BFS-6 3/16″ I-Beams
- Plastruct MS-250 .250″ Square Rod
- Plastruct TB-6 3/16″ round tubing
- BLMA Concrete ‘K-Rail’ Barriers
- Rix Products Modern 50′ Railings
- Testors Plastic Model Cement
- Testors Flat Dark Aircraft Gray
- Woodland Scenics Dry Transfers (white and Yellow)

1) I first worked on assembling the roadbase.

I trim the styrene sheet to my needed size; an approximate 5″ x 20″.  I used a scoring tool to score the styrene to snap it.  I then sanded the edge a little to smooth things out.

2) With the roadbase shaped, I glued on the bottom support I-Beams into place.  These come in 24″ lengths, so I trimmed to size.


3) Next I added the center divider.  I used the ‘K-Rail’ concrete barrier from BLMA for this.

4) Installed the Rix Products side railings.

5) With the roadbase assembled, I spray painted it with Testors Flat Dark Aircraft Gray.

6) Final touch was the road stripping. I used Woodland Scenics Dry Transfer Decals.  A variety of sizes come on the sheet, but I used the 1/64″ size.   I followed the instructions to apply, using the blunt end of a paintbrush to the burnishing with.  My lanes aren’t exact 100% straight, but it looks pretty good for my first highway.

The outer shoulders are 3/4″ wide, and each lane is 1″ wide.  The center divider is also 3/4″.  The lane stripping is 3/4″ long spaced 1″ apart.

And that completes the roadway itself.  Part 2 will be the support piers and pads.

Shaun Scenery

  1. June 29th, 2010 at 14:43 | #1

    Perfect! Looks just right. I need to work on my railroad overpass pretty soon and I’ll be using a technique similar to the first two steps you show above. Good timing. :) Jamie

  2. June 30th, 2010 at 09:00 | #2

    Shaun,
    I like the look of this. Should come together nicely. And kudos on the scratchbuilding – we need to see more of that and not less.

  3. Avel
    June 30th, 2010 at 11:11 | #3

    It wouldn’t be realistic if it was perfectly straight.

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